Azelaic acid may not be the first name that pops up when you think of skincare acids, but this under-the-radar powerhouse is finally getting the attention it deserves. Whether you’re dealing with stubborn acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or simply want a gentler exfoliating option—azelaic acid might be what your skin has been asking for all along.
In this post, we’ll take a closer look at azelaic acid—what it is, how it works, its science-backed benefits, possible side effects, and how to use it safely and effectively.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like wheat, rye, and barley. In skincare, it’s synthesized in labs for purity and effectiveness. It’s most commonly used to treat acne, rosacea, and pigmentation issues due to its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-renewing properties.
Unlike stronger acids like glycolic or salicylic acid, azelaic acid is considered gentler, making it suitable for sensitive skin types or those who don’t tolerate traditional exfoliants well.
Properties of Azelaic Acid
Here’s a table summarizing the key properties of azelaic acid:
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| Chemical Formula | C9H16O4 |
| Type | Dicarboxylic acid |
| Source | Naturally in grains; synthesized for skincare |
| Appearance | White powder |
| Solubility | Slightly soluble in water; soluble in alcohol |
| pH Range | 4.0 – 5.5 (formulations) |
| Mechanism of Action | Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic |
| Common Concentrations | 10% (OTC), 15%–20% (prescription) |
| Skin Type Compatibility | All skin types, especially sensitive |
| Comedogenic Rating | 0 (non-comedogenic) |
How Does Azelaic Acid Work?
Azelaic acid works through several mechanisms, making it a multi-functional ingredient in skincare:
- Antibacterial Action: It kills acne-causing bacteria such as Cutibacterium acnes on the skin.
- Anti-Inflammatory: It calms redness and inflammation, especially useful for conditions like rosacea.
- Keratolytic Effect: It helps in normalizing the skin’s shedding process and unclogging pores.
- Tyrosinase Inhibition: It blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production, helping to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
- Reduces Free Radicals: It has antioxidant properties, which help reduce oxidative stress on the skin.
15 Science-Backed Benefits of Azelaic Acid
1) Reduces Acne:
Azelaic acid unclogs pores and eliminates acne-causing bacteria, effectively treating both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne.
2) Treats Rosacea:
Its anti-inflammatory properties make it a go-to ingredient for reducing redness, bumps, and irritation caused by rosacea.
3) Fades Hyperpigmentation:
Azelaic acid inhibits melanin production, helping to lighten dark spots and melasma over time.
4) Gentle on Sensitive Skin:
Unlike stronger exfoliants, it’s well tolerated even by those with sensitive or reactive skin.
5) Unclogs Pores:
By helping the skin to shed dead cells more efficiently, azelaic acid keeps pores clear and reduces blackheads.
6) Evens Out Skin Tone:
With regular use, it can improve overall skin texture and tone, leading to a smoother, more uniform complexion.
7) Controls Oil Production:
It can help regulate sebum, making it beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin types.
8) Reduces Post-Acne Marks:
Azelaic acid helps fade red or dark marks left behind by acne without irritating the surrounding skin.
9) Works Well With Other Ingredients:
It pairs safely with most skincare ingredients including niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and retinol.
10) Minimal Sun Sensitivity:
It doesn’t significantly increase photosensitivity, though sunscreen is still recommended.
11) Can Be Used Long-Term:
Studies have shown it remains effective and safe even with prolonged use.
12) Anti-Microbial Properties:
It helps prevent infections in acne lesions by targeting various skin bacteria.
13) Improves Skin Texture:
Over time, azelaic acid softens rough patches and reduces bumps caused by keratin build-up.
14) Reduces Inflammation in Hair Follicles:
It’s helpful for conditions like folliculitis due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
15) Helps with Perioral Dermatitis:
It may calm the redness and irritation associated with this condition when used consistently.
10 Side Effects of Azelaic Acid
While generally well tolerated, some people may experience side effects, especially during the initial stages of use:
1) Mild Burning or Tingling:
A slight stinging sensation may occur, especially right after application.
2) Dryness:
Azelaic acid can dry out the skin, particularly in colder months or dry climates.
3) Peeling or Flaking:
The exfoliating action can lead to minor flakiness during the first few weeks.
4) Redness:
Some users may notice increased redness initially.
5) Itching:
Temporary itching may occur, especially in sensitive skin types.
6) Skin Tightness:
A feeling of tight skin can result from moisture loss.
7) Worsening of Symptoms at First:
Skin purging or irritation may occur in the beginning but usually subsides.
8) Swelling:
In rare cases, mild swelling or puffiness may appear.
9) Allergic Reactions:
Though uncommon, some individuals may experience allergic dermatitis or hives.
10) Hypopigmentation:
Very rarely, lightening of the skin beyond the affected area may occur.
How to Use Azelaic Acid
Here’s a step-by-step guide for using azelaic acid in your skincare routine:
Step 1: Cleanse
Start with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser to remove impurities.
Step 2: Tone (Optional)
If you use a toner, choose an alcohol-free, hydrating one.
Step 3: Apply Azelaic Acid
Apply a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin. Focus on problem areas or apply thinly to the entire face.
Step 4: Moisturize
Follow with a hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturizer to counteract dryness.
Step 5: SPF (Morning Use)
Always use sunscreen during the day, even though azelaic acid doesn’t increase sun sensitivity as much as other acids.
Frequency:
Start with 2–3 times a week, then gradually increase to daily use as your skin adjusts.
Precautions and Warnings
- Patch Test First: Always do a patch test before using it on your entire face.
- Don’t Use on Broken Skin: Avoid using it on cuts, wounds, or sunburned skin.
- Avoid Eye and Lip Area: These areas are more sensitive and may react negatively.
- Limit Use with Other Actives Initially: If using retinoids or other acids, alternate days or consult a dermatologist.
- Storage: Store at room temperature, away from direct sunlight.
If irritation persists, discontinue use and consult a healthcare provider.
Who Should Use Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is ideal for a broad range of users:
- People with acne-prone skin
- Individuals with rosacea
- Those with melasma or hyperpigmentation
- People looking for gentle exfoliation
- Sensitive skin types who can’t tolerate stronger acids
- Teenagers and adults alike
It’s also a great option for those who prefer a multitasking product that targets multiple skin concerns at once.
Who Should Not Use Azelaic Acid?
While azelaic acid is well tolerated by most, a few individuals should proceed with caution or avoid it:
- Those with Grain Allergies: Since it’s derived from wheat, people with gluten sensitivity should consult a dermatologist.
- People with Very Dry or Eczema-Prone Skin: It may exacerbate dryness or irritation.
- Pregnant or Breastfeeding Women: While generally considered safe, it’s always best to consult a doctor before use.
- Individuals Using Strong Prescription Products: Combining it with retinoids or benzoyl peroxide can increase irritation.
- Those Experiencing Severe Allergic Reactions: If a previous reaction to azelaic acid occurred, it should not be reused.
What is the Best Time to Use Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid can be used both in the morning and at night, depending on your routine and skin sensitivity.
Morning Use:
- Benefits include oil control and pigmentation reduction throughout the day.
- Always follow with sunscreen to protect your skin.
Night Use:
- Ideal for sensitive or dry skin types.
- Gives your skin time to repair and renew overnight.
Recommended Strategy:
- Start with nighttime use 2–3 times a week.
- As your skin builds tolerance, increase frequency and optionally introduce morning applications on alternate days.
FAQ’s
Q. Is azelaic acid safe for daily use?
Yes, azelaic acid is generally safe for daily use once your skin has built up tolerance. Start with 2–3 times per week and gradually increase to daily application.
Q. Can I use azelaic acid with retinol?
Yes, but it’s best to alternate them or use one in the morning and the other at night to reduce the risk of irritation.
Q. How long does it take to see results from azelaic acid?
Visible improvements typically take 4 to 8 weeks, but some people may see results sooner, especially with consistent use.
Q. Does azelaic acid lighten your skin?
Azelaic acid doesn’t bleach the skin but helps reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots, resulting in a more even skin tone over time.
Q. Is azelaic acid good for rosacea?
Absolutely. It’s one of the few over-the-counter ingredients clinically proven to reduce redness, bumps, and inflammation associated with rosacea.
Q. Can azelaic acid cause purging?
Yes, some users may experience purging initially as the skin renews itself, but this usually subsides within a few weeks.
Q. Is it safe to use azelaic acid during pregnancy?
Generally, yes. Azelaic acid is considered safe during pregnancy, but it’s still best to consult your healthcare provider before use.
Q. What not to mix with azelaic acid?
Avoid mixing it directly with strong acids like glycolic acid or high-strength retinoids unless directed by a dermatologist, as this may cause irritation.
Q. Can azelaic acid be used on dark skin?
Yes, it is safe and effective for all skin tones and is especially helpful for treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin.
Q. Do I need to use sunscreen with azelaic acid?
Yes, while azelaic acid doesn’t increase sun sensitivity as much as other acids, wearing SPF daily helps protect against further pigmentation and irritation.
Q: What does azelaic acid do to the skin?
Azelaic acid helps the skin by gently exfoliating dead skin cells, reducing inflammation, killing acne-causing bacteria, and fading dark spots. It treats acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation while improving overall skin tone and texture.
Q: Which is better, Vitamin C or azelaic acid?
Both ingredients offer great skin benefits, but it depends on your skin concerns.
- Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that brightens skin and protects against environmental damage.
- Azelaic acid targets acne, rosacea, and pigmentation with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
For brightening and antioxidant protection, choose Vitamin C. For acne or rosacea-prone skin, azelaic acid may be better.
Q: Is salicylic acid or azelaic acid better?
It depends on your skin type and concerns.
- Salicylic acid is great for oily, acne-prone skin and deep pore cleansing.
- Azelaic acid is gentler and also targets redness, rosacea, and pigmentation.
If you have sensitive or reactive skin, azelaic acid is likely the better choice.
Q: Which is better, azelaic acid or niacinamide?
Both are effective and often used together.
- Niacinamide helps with oil control, redness, and skin barrier repair.
- Azelaic acid fights acne, inflammation, and pigmentation.
If you’re seeking targeted treatment for pigmentation and acne, azelaic acid is better. For overall skin health and calming irritation, niacinamide is a great option.
Q: Which is better, glycolic acid or azelaic acid?
These acids serve different purposes:
- Glycolic acid is an AHA that exfoliates the surface of the skin for a brighter, smoother look.
- Azelaic acid is more versatile, treating acne, rosacea, and pigmentation with minimal irritation.
Choose glycolic acid for intensive exfoliation and azelaic acid for sensitive skin or multiple skin concerns.
Final Thoughts
Azelaic acid may not have the flashy reputation of other skincare acids, but it more than earns its place in any effective routine. From treating acne and rosacea to fading pigmentation and smoothing texture, it offers gentle, yet powerful results for a wide range of skin concerns.
If you’re looking for a science-backed, multi-functional, and relatively low-risk skincare ingredient, azelaic acid might just be your new skincare ally. As with any active ingredient, consistency and patience are key—results may take weeks, but they’re well worth the wait. Whether you’re a skincare minimalist or a 10-step routine enthusiast, azelaic acid is a quiet achiever that delivers lasting results with minimal drama.
Also Read: